During Christmas, it’s always important to pay a little extra attention to those we care about. It is a time to love thy neighbors, so that’s why we want to give a little consideration to our favorite neighbor in Limburg: Thorn!
Even on dark and grey days, Thorn radiates with an enchanting and enthralling aura, but on the 10th of December, this feeling is multiplied by 1000. The ornate white facades, old dormer windows, and quaintly cobbled streets fully embrace Christmas joy, with dazzling decorations and melodious music. That’s why I would love to take you on a tour of Thorn. The city center isn’t that large so we can easily get through it in one afternoon. The tour will start and end at your villa or apartment in Parc Maasresidence Thorn. Grab a pair of comfortable walking shoes and start heading over toward the blue bridge. In the meantime, I will fill you in on the history of the stunning, white town.
The first stone of Thorn was placed way back in 990 when Count Ansfried of Utrecht founded a Benedictine monastery here. From the 12th century onward, the monastery grew to be used exclusively by women, most of whom were unmarried daughters of important counts and monarchs. If a woman decided they wanted to marry, she had to leave the monastery and choose to live in their own home outside of the monastery walls. This is how Thorn slowly gained notoriety as a cradle for women of high nobility. In the meantime, the Holy Roman Emperor recognized Thorn as an independent principality with market and toll rights. It remained independent for a long time, right up until the invasion of Napoleon in 1794. A great number of rich families and ladies of nobility fled Thorn while the French, in the meantime, started levying high taxes based on window size. The idea was that larger windows equaled more wealth. Many poor citizens who were left behind in these large homes had no way of paying these taxes and therefore decided to brick up the large windows. In order to hide their deceit from the French, they whitewashed their homes, and that is how Thorn got its characteristic white houses after the fall of Napoleon, Thorn became part of The Netherlands and officially fell under the province of Limburg.
There you have it: the history of Thorn! Hopefully, you have made your way to the blue drawbridge in the meantime. Take a moment to look out over the lush Maasplassen lakes around you and then head on over to MRT Beach. Once you reach a small roundabout, turn right. You will find yourself on the road that runs past the Grote Hegge castle estate, which means that Thorn is just a few steps away. As you walk up the Hofstraat, the first stop on your tour is the Engels Antiek en Curiosa shop. I would recommend taking a look inside, as you always unexpectedly find some unique, antique gems in there. Wander through all the curiosities for a while before heading over to Grand-Café t’Stift for a cup of coffee. If you’re a little peckish, then go ahead and order the homemade pea soup. It’s a local hit! Make a pit-stop at Leut-Koffie & Kado for some authentic souvenir shopping before turning left onto the Hoogstraat.
As you look around, you notice that this street bustles with life! Everywhere you look, you see small stalls with hot mulled wine, handcrafted trinkets, baubles, and gimmicks, thick “snert” (a thick Dutch soup), and charming Christmas carolers. On the 10th of December, all of Thorn goes the extra mile, and the result is seen all around! Apart from your typical Christmas stalls, the villagers and local shops of Thorn also put their wares on display for everyone to admire. Saunter through the cozy Christmas market, eat some roasted chestnuts, and then take another left toward the characteristically striped abbey church that was partially renovated by Pierre Cuypers, a renowned Dutch architect. From 12:30 onwards, starting with the Scrooge Choir, you can listen to all kinds of lovely musical performances every 45 minutes. Take a seat on one of the wooden benches and relinquish yourself to the melodious echoes that fill the halls.
The music is captivating, but we need to keep moving if we want to finish the tour today. As you leave the abbey, turn left onto the Wijngaard. Take in the elaborate cobbled mosaics before heading over to Museum Thorn. The museum is not too large, but it’s definitely worth a visit if you wish to learn more about the city’s rich history, or simply want to enjoy some work by local artists such as Harry van den Boel. Take all the time you need to look at the century-old artifacts and colorful canvases before continuing your journey down the street. Take a right turn onto the Holstraat and keep walking until you find yourself back at the Hoogstraat.
Apart from the super cozy Christmas stalls, the Hoogstraat also hosts several Burgundian cafés and restaurants. If you are taking this tour with your kids, then treat yourself to a sweet and sugary lunch at the Pannekoekenbakker (the pancake baker)! Here, you can try out every thinkable kind of pancake topping, including a Christmassy choice of ice cream, poached pears, and whipped cream! Top off your decadent lunch with a Speculoos Latte Macchiato and leave the restaurant with a warm, fuzzy feeling.
The Boogstraat, a side street next to the Pannekoekenbakker, nurtures two more stores that are an absolute must-visit before we slowly make our way back through the decorated streets toward Parc Maasresidence Thorn. If you’re looking for a Christmassy tablecloth, a pair of embroidered napkins, or a set of super soft towels, then the next shop is right down your alley. Bad & Tafel is a charming little store where you can explore a world of soft fabrics for even softer prices. Right next to Bad & Tafel, you will find Vintage Atelier van Thorn. The interior of this tiny atelier looks like the backdrop for a fairytale, albeit a bit of a messy one. Nothing seems to match, but yet it all belongs together somehow. It’s the perfect place for some last-minute Christmas shopping. Follow the Boogstraat a little further and you will bump into Wijngoed Thorn, the perfect place for an alcoholic digestif. Let your palette revel in the taste of several unique red and white wines grown on local soil! I would recommend taking a bottle of Limburg wine with you so that you can revisit the taste of the Dutch South once more in a few weeks.
Time to check in with how you’re feeling. Are your shoulders heavy and do your feet ache? It’s been a long day with an abundance of activities, so I think its time to head back to your villa or apartment at Parc Maasresidence Thorn. Upon leaving Wijngoed Thorn, turn right and follow the Boogstraat until you reach the Wal. From here, you can choose to simply take the bus back home. It’s a direct line with only two stops that places your right at the entrance of Parc Maasresidence Thorn. Should you still have some energy left, you can also decide to walk back instead, which will take you around 20 minutes.
Well, there you have it, Thorn during Christmas. Didn’t I tell you that it is a super charming and picturesque city? In one day, you were able to see all of the highlights that make this city so special. Good on you! For your efforts, I think you should treat yourself to a Burgundian three-course menu at Humphrey’s Thorn. Fully decompress with nice food and a stunning view across the Maasplassen while you think back upon one of the most beautiful towns in Limburg, no, in all of the Netherlands. Maybe even in all of Europe…